Crochet Octopus Keychain Free Pattern

⚑ Beginner Friendly
๐Ÿงถ Project Details at a Glance
Skill LevelBeginner
Yarn WeightDK Weight (Category 3) — 100% Cotton
Hook Size3mm (US C-2 / D-3)
Yardage~30 yards (scraps are perfect)
Estimated Time1–2 hours
Finished Size2" wide × 1½" tall

This crochet octopus keychain is proof that the most crowd-pleasing projects are often the simplest ones. Made entirely in one piece — no sewing, no assembly, no frustration — it uses just 30 yards of DK cotton and a 3mm hook, which means a single skein of scrap yarn can produce an entire set of keychains in an afternoon. All eight arms curl naturally as you work, giving the finished octopus that unmistakably adorable personality without any extra effort on your part.


Thirty yards of scrap cotton, one afternoon, and one very loveable finished keychain.

The finished octopus measures approximately 2 inches wide and 1.5 inches tall — the ideal size for clipping onto keys, school bags, pencil cases, and zip pulls without being in the way. This pattern also makes an outstanding handmade gift. Teachers, coworkers, friends, craft market browsers — every single person who spots one of these little charms immediately wants their own. Once you make your first, you will understand why.

๐Ÿ“– Crochet Abbreviations Used — US Terms
  • MR = magic ring
  • ch = chain
  • sc = single crochet
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • sc2tog = single crochet decrease
  • BLO = back loop only
  • FLO = front loop only
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • YO = yarn over
  • MK = place marker

Everything You Need to Get Started

One of the best things about this project is how little you need to make it. The full supply list is short enough to fit in a small project bag, and the yarn requirement is so low that scrap yarn from almost any other cotton project will do the job.

  • DK Weight Cotton Yarn (Category 3) Approximately 30 yards per octopus. Cotton is the right choice here — it holds its shape beautifully at this scale, keeps the body firm without excessive stuffing, and washes well if the keychain is for a child. A soft milk cotton or any smooth DK cotton will work perfectly.
  • 3mm Crochet Hook (US C-2 / D-3) This size pairs with DK cotton to give you a tight, dense fabric — essential for a small stuffed piece so the filling does not show through. If your tension is loose, size down to a 2.75mm.
  • One Pair of 6mm Safety Eyes Black safety eyes give the octopus its personality. They are inserted and locked from the inside during Round 7, before the opening closes completely. If making this for a very young child, embroider the eyes with black yarn instead.
  • Key Ring with Chain A standard split key ring works well. Linking two short chains together with a pair of pliers gives you more length and a more polished final look.
  • Fiber Fill Stuffing, Locking Stitch Markers, and Tapestry Needle Stuff lightly — this is a keychain, not a plush toy. The stitch marker tracks your round starts throughout the head, and the tapestry needle weaves in the yarn tails to finish. A small amount of black yarn or embroidery thread completes the smile.


๐Ÿ“Œ Important Pattern Notes — Read Before Starting
  1. One-piece construction: The head is crocheted first as a round ball. The eight arms are then worked directly into the unused front loops left at the base of Round 9 — there is no sewing at any stage.
  2. Marker movement: Each time you work into the marked stitch, move the marker up into the first stitch of the new round. This keeps your round count accurate throughout.
  3. No turning: Work in a continuous spiral throughout. Do not turn at the end of rounds unless the pattern specifically states otherwise.
  4. Stitch counts: The number in brackets ( ) at the end of each round is the total stitch count for that round. Check yours as you go.

Crocheting the Octopus Head

The head is worked in a continuous spiral from the top down. You will build it up with increase rounds, work a few straight rounds to establish the body, then decrease it back in to close the shape — leaving one strategic layer of unused loops at the very bottom that will anchor all eight arms.



Rounds 1–4 — Building the Crown

Round 1: Make a magic ring. Work 1 sc into the ring, place a stitch marker in this first sc, then work 7 more sc into the same ring. Pull the tail to close the ring. (8 sc)
Round 2: Work 2 sc in the marked stitch, then 2 sc in each of the next 7 stitches. (16 sc)
Round 3: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st* — repeat from * to end of round. (24 sc)
Round 4: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts* — repeat from * to end of round. (32 sc)

Rounds 5–6 — Working Straight (and Setting the Eyes)

Rounds 5 and 6: 1 sc in each stitch around. (32 sc)
๐Ÿ”ต Safety Eyes: After completing Round 6, this is the ideal moment to add your 6mm safety eyes. Position them between Rounds 5 and 6, approximately 3 stitches apart. Push the posts through from the outside and secure the washers firmly on the inside. Once the next decrease rounds close the opening further, the eyes will be locked in place permanently.

Rounds 7–9 — Shaping, Stuffing, and Closing

Round 7: *1 sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog* — repeat from * to end of round. (24 sc)
Round 8: *1 sc in next st, sc2tog* — repeat from * to end of round. (16 sc)
๐Ÿงต Stuff now: Before beginning Round 9, push a small amount of fiber fill into the head. Use less stuffing than you think you need — a lightly filled keychain hangs and moves more naturally than a firmly stuffed one.
Round 9: Work (sc2tog through the BLO only) 8 times across the round. This will leave 16 free front loops at the base — these are the anchor points for all eight arms. Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch yarn tail for cinching later. (8 sts)
The magic of a project like this one is that the technical challenge and the visual reward are completely mismatched. It looks like something that took skill. It took an afternoon.

Adding All Eight Arms



This is the step that makes the whole pattern — and it is far less complicated than it looks. You will be working into those 16 free front loops left at the base of Round 9. Each arm is simply a short chain worked back on itself, creating that characteristic natural curl. Join a fresh length of yarn here — or continue with the working yarn from a separate join if you prefer.

Starting the arms: Identify the tiny loop directly beneath the marked stitch (this is your first free loop) and the 16th free loop on the opposite side. Insert your hook through both loops at once, pull the yarn through, and make a slip stitch to join and anchor your yarn.

Arm (repeat 8 times): *Chain 7. Slip stitch into the 2nd chain from hook. Single crochet into each of the next 5 chains. Slip stitch into the next 2 free loops on the head.* — 1 arm completed.

Repeat the arm sequence until all 8 arms are finished. After the 8th arm, slip stitch to the last remaining free loop on the head, then slip stitch to the base of the first arm to complete the circle. Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch yarn tail.

✨ Natural curl: The arms curl automatically because of the slip stitch at the chain base. Do not try to adjust or straighten them — the curl is part of the design. Each arm will spiral slightly differently, giving your octopus a wonderfully organic, handmade look.

Hook Size Yarn Weight Finished Size Best Use
2.5mm Fingering / Sock (Cat. 1) ~1.5" × 1" Tiny charm, earring pendant
3mm (pattern size) DK Weight (Cat. 3) ~2" × 1.5" Keychain, bag charm
3.5mm Worsted (Cat. 4) ~2.5" × 2" Small gift plush, cat toy
5mm Bulky (Cat. 5) ~3.5" × 3" Desk plush, nursery decor

The Finishing Steps

Cinching the Base Closed

Add a little more stuffing through the bottom opening at this stage — once the base is cinched shut you cannot add more without reopening it. Using the 12-inch tail you fastened off at the end of Round 9, thread your tapestry needle and run a whip stitch through the front loop of each stitch around the bottom opening. Pull firmly to draw the opening closed. If any small gaps remain where stuffing peeks through, use the remaining tail to work a few tiny stitches across them, then bury the tail completely inside the head.

The Face and the Key Ring

Thread a small length of black yarn onto your tapestry needle and embroider a simple curved smile directly below the safety eyes — a single long stitch curved gently upward at each end. A tiny drop of fabric glue at each end of the smile, once dry, will hold the curve in place permanently.

Using the 12-inch tail left at the base of the arms, bring the needle up to the top of the head and use it to firmly stitch the key ring to the crown, working through the chain link several times for security. Once the key ring is fixed, bury the remaining tail inside the head. Your octopus keychain is complete and ready to use.

Five Tips for a Perfectly Finished Octopus

  • Keep your tension tight and consistent Work with slightly tighter tension than you normally would for DK yarn — your hook should not glide through the stitches without resistance. A tighter fabric means the stuffing stays inside rather than peeking through the gaps, and the finished octopus will hold its round shape better over time.
  • Always use locking stitch markers, never split ring markers This pattern requires moving a marker up on every single round. A locking marker clicks in and out of any stitch in a second. A split ring marker will snag the yarn and slow you down. If you only own split ring markers, a small loop of contrast yarn makes a perfectly functional substitute.
  • Add the safety eyes early — do not wait Round 7 is your last comfortable opportunity to position the eyes. By Round 8 the opening is already narrow, and by Round 9 it is almost completely closed. Set the eyes during Round 6 or immediately after — test the position before locking the washers, because there is no correcting them once they are clicked into place.
  • Understuff rather than overstuff the head This is a keychain, not a plush toy. A lightly filled octopus looks more refined, hangs better from a key ring, and keeps its round shape more reliably than one packed with stuffing. Fill to about 60% of what feels full, then step back and assess the shape before closing.
  • Use cotton yarn, not acrylic, for the best results Cotton has almost no stretch, which means the arms hold their curl naturally and the body does not distort over time from being attached to keys. Acrylic yarn at this scale can look fuzzy and the arms may not curl as reliably. If you only have acrylic, add a tiny drop of fabric stiffener to the arms after finishing to encourage the curl.

Getting the yarn weight right for a small amigurumi piece makes a significant difference to the finished result. DK weight (Category 3) is the industry standard for small crocheted accessories and keychains because it produces the right balance of stitch definition, fabric density, and quick working speed. For a clear breakdown of every yarn weight category and what it means for your gauge and finished piece, the Craft Yarn Council's official yarn weight system is the most authoritative reference available.

One Pattern, Infinite Possibilities

What makes the crochet octopus keychain so rewarding to make is the instant feedback — you start with a flat ring and finish with something that looks considered and complete in under two hours. The no-sew, one-piece construction means there is almost nothing that can go wrong, and the colour combinations are entirely yours to explore. Pastels for a baby shower. Bold brights for a school bag. Neutral earth tones for a desk charm. A single ball of scrap yarn can become a completely different creature depending on what you reach for.

Make one for yourself first — then make the next one for someone who will love it just as much.

Frequently Asked Questions: Crochet Octopus Keychain

Is this crochet octopus keychain pattern suitable for absolute beginners?
Yes — this pattern requires only four standard stitches: the magic ring, chain stitch, single crochet, and slip stitch. If you can work in a continuous spiral and keep a stitch marker in place, you have every skill this pattern asks for. The only step that requires a moment of extra attention is joining the arms into the free loops at the base of Round 9, which the pattern notes explain clearly.
Can I use acrylic yarn instead of cotton for this keychain?
You can, but cotton gives significantly better results for this project. Cotton has almost no stretch, which means the body holds its round shape, the arms curl more reliably, and the finished keychain looks neater over time. If you only have acrylic yarn available, use a hook one size smaller than usual to tighten the fabric, and consider applying a small amount of fabric stiffener to the arms once finished to encourage the curl.
How long does it take to make the crochet octopus keychain?
Most beginners complete this pattern in 1.5 to 2 hours, including setup time. The head rounds (1–9) take about 45 to 60 minutes. The eight arms add another 20 to 30 minutes. Finishing — cinching, embroidering the face, and attaching the key ring — takes under 15 minutes. More experienced crocheters often finish the entire keychain in under an hour.
When exactly should I add the safety eyes?
The best time to add the safety eyes is immediately after completing Round 6, before you begin the decrease rounds. Position them between Rounds 5 and 6, approximately 3 stitches apart, and test the placement carefully before locking the washers — once the washers are clicked on, the eyes cannot be removed without cutting them free. If you are making this keychain for a child under three, embroider the eyes with black yarn instead, as safety eyes are a choking hazard for very young children.
How do I keep the octopus arms in their curled shape?
The arms curl naturally because of the slip stitch worked at the base of each chain — the slip stitch is shorter than the single crochet stitches that follow, which creates a gentle curve. If you want a more pronounced curl, you can dampen the arms lightly and wrap each one around a pencil while it dries. A tiny drop of fabric stiffener or diluted white glue on each arm will also hold the curl permanently once it dries.
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